David's Tamiya TT-02 10th scale On-Road TC build

[Panko75]

If you look under the chassis, the bellcrank screws can be drilled through and the chassis has nut pockets molded in to add nuts to the underside.

Doing that is supposed to help some

What I did was grab some long hex screws with a head caps, grease them with silicone or low friction grease, shove a brass insert into each bellcrank, tighten from underneath, then 3mm nuts over the bellcranks.

I basically copied what Tamiya themselves reccomend for the TT02 SR. This made for a very stiff and sturdy setup, but it didn't necessarily fix the steering. It just kept the bellcranks from loosening up.

A cheap fix that might help is a set of metal pivot balls for the front, the stock plastic ones get sloppy quick. I can't make any promises though. I'm just glad that I'm rid of anything TT and went with a Fazer.

 

[332_RC]

Yeah, those curved Amazon scissors are crap. Throw them in the garbage. Get some good straight scissors to do the main areas of the body. For the wheel wells and any curved areas I can't trim off with scissors I lightly score it with an Xacto blade and snap those areas off. Works great in the wheel openings. Score the openings, then cut relief cuts to break the wheel openings out in little sections.

These work amazingly well on lexan & the fender wells. Just got thru trimming a Jconcepts Finnisher body last week for my K6 & they did a great job. I still sanded everything w/ 180g sandpaper, but much less time.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3736473743...q7FPNHENTvG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

 

[WickedFog]

These work amazingly well on lexan & the fender wells. Just got thru trimming a Jconcepts Finnisher body last week for my K6 & they did a great job. I still sanded everything w/ 180g sandpaper, but much less time.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3736473743...q7FPNHENTvG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

Similar to what I used to use. I have cuticle scisdors that are curved, and they do great. But I kinda like the Xacto method better.

 

[332_RC]

Similar to what I used to use. I have cuticle scisdors that are curved, and they do great. But I kinda like the Xacto method better.

I've never tried that. I'll will give it try indeed. Get tip! Thanks dude!

 

[9x19]

Or pay it forward and GIVE it to someone...

Not it!

 

[DavidB1126]

Took all the electronics out. Sitting as a roller on display. TT project on hold as I want to focus on the off-road cars during summer. Gonna pick up back on the TT during the fall. Wanting a full rebuild but if not I'll just air compress it all off to make it cleaner.

 

[DavidB1126]

shocks and driveshaft

Test drove it. Felt like they were way firmer than the stock friction shocks. But I do like the look of them.

 

[WickedFog]

shocks and driveshaft

View attachment 191652

View attachment 191653

View attachment 191654

Test drove it. Felt like they were way firmer than the stock friction shocks. But I do like the look of them.

They could use some lighter springs for sure.

 

[DavidB1126]

Updated my list:
Aluminum bellcranks (with bearings and tie rods)
_______________ The rest below is only if the bellcrank helps the car go straight
set of .6 mod pinion gears, new spur gear and aluminum mounts and such.
set of tires for aluminum wheels
honda civic hatchback body. Either the castrol body, or eg6 body from the tt02d
Tamiya orange paint (gonna talk to my uncle to see which paints are the best)
And since I'm planning to get a new brushless system for the rustler soon, the system I currently have in there will go into the TT which is a gen1 max10 60a and 3652 4000kv setup. But if that doesn't happen, ill solder up that Yeah Racing 13T 540 motor and one of my traxxas motors and tests those out. should be way faster than the tamiya tuned ones.

I was looking at cheap goolrc combos on amazon and I'm like yeah, I don't wanna risk it getting a bad batch of those things.

Last drive with the TT02, yea that wasn't true. Lol.

 

[Panko75]

Updated my list:
Aluminum bellcranks (with bearings and tie rods)
_______________ The rest below is only if the bellcrank helps the car go straight

I'd buy a better servo before buying anymore upgrades, actually I would have bought a better servo before buying the bellcranks.

Yea its just a TT02, but you can always take your "good" servo and install it into something else. If you funnel money into hop-ups and they don't work out, you can't migrate those hop-ups to a better RC.

 

[DavidB1126]

I visually see what's going on. Can't be the servo. The servo returns to center. It's a good and cheap hexfly servo. The bellcrank won't return to center making the car go all over the place. I can try another servo which what I have is a spare Traxxas 2056 but I guarantee it will have the same issue.

I put grease on where every screw attaches to the bellcrank. I also put a longer hex screw in and a couple washers which I feel like it made the steering slightly better, but you can still notice it won't return to center and still making it not drive straight. Also sometimes at the point where I have to constantly try to trim the servo through my radio.

 

[9x19]

Don't you just love free stuff!

 

[Panko75]

I visually see what's going on. Can't be the servo. The servo returns to center. It's a good and cheap hexfly servo. The bellcrank won't return to center making the car go all over the place. I can try another servo which what I have is a spare Traxxas 2056 but I guarantee it will have the same issue.

Heres a list of things to check from my experience:

1. Make sure that none of the screws in the bellcrank system or the a-arm pivot balls are too tight, this will cause binding.

2. Test it off the ground, its tougher for servos to return to center when the cars on the ground and sitting still.

3. The pivot balls might be worn out, the grease that the manual asks you to apply traps dirt, so they wear out in only a few runs.

4. As with any Tamiya owner, make frequent sanity checks!

I think you're beginning to see why I quit messing with Tamiyas myself.

 

[WickedFog]

Heres a list of things to check from my experience:

1. Make sure that none of the screws in the bellcrank system or the a-arm pivot balls are too tight, this will cause binding.

2. Test it off the ground, its tougher for servos to return to center when the cars on the ground and sitting still.

3. The pivot balls might be worn out, the grease that the manual asks you to apply traps dirt, so they wear out in only a few runs.

4. As with any Tamiya owner, make frequent sanity checks!

I think you're beginning to see why I quit messing with Tamiyas myself.

It's none of that. The Tamiya bellcrank, a-arm, and everything else to do with steering is garbage. Even with an aluminum bellcrank the car goes wherever it wants because there is slop in every component on the car.even the rear a-arm assembly csuses the car to wander around.