Rival MT10 Castle Copperhead Sensored System

[JapanRCAdventures]

Gents here is my associated MT10 - CRCU T7075 under-chassis brace & T7075 Motor mount (no one else makes these parts), M2C Hinge Pin holders, Castle Copperhead Sensored system (3,800kv) Dual Motor fans, QS8 Connector, Proline Mashers, (center diff & pin with gears picture is from my Associated Pro 4 - ask me what that is - Hint Mod 1 Spur)) I've got the RPM Arms on standby hope you enjoy the snaps. BTW the bar sits underneath the chassis and its meant to take
a beating/ no one cares about how pretty the “finish” should be.

 

[WickedFog]

I've never heard of CRCU. But after looking at their site, it looks to me like they need some CNC machining consultation.

Nice truck!

 

[JapanRCAdventures]

I've never heard of CRCU. But after looking at their site, it looks to me like they need some CNC machining consultation.

Nice truck! The CRCU parts

Side note. CRCU is based out of the UK - fit is perfect, bash bars have been thoroughly tested by K. Talbot and NO one else makes a T7075 Chassis brace or motor mount for this platform. I really dont care about the “finish” itself as this is not for looks but rather function and what matters the most is its strength (T7075).

View attachment 192817

 

[WickedFog]

Thanks. The CRCU parts
fit perfectly and are top notch / maybe you need some glasses and get out of this Forum more often CRCU is very well known.

View attachment 192817

That is rookie machining right there. Terrible toolpath with the wrong endmill - results in a very ugly part.

This is quality machine work

M2C stuff looks much, much nicer.

This is garbage. Some very terrible tool chatter. Again, wrong tool, wrong depth of finish cut, and wrong speeds and feeds. In my career, this part would have very abruptly met the scrap bin.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I would hope that the part alone wasn't the only thing that met the scrap bin, that looks terrible.

 

[332_RC]

This is garbage. Some very terrible tool chatter. Again, wrong tool, wrong depth of finish cut, and wrong speeds and feeds. In my career, this part would have very abruptly met the scrap bin.
View attachment 192825

Agreed. My CAM has self generated, auto tool selection & feature recognition & this is what it does. Without my user programming input, it looks that way. I always fine tune all my progams & select my tools, adjust F&S. Also looks like it was run dry or with only air blast & the woodgraining is a big sign of non ridged setup.

 

[WickedFog]

Agreed. My CAM has self generated, auto tool selection & feature recognition & this is what it does. Without my user programming input, it looks that way. Also looks like it was run dry or with only air blast & the woodgraining is a big sign of non ridged setup.

When MasterCam came out with their high speed toolpaths, I started playing with them. They were actually really good at creating some very efficient paths, and the finish in pockets actually looked pretty cool. But a lot of times for parts I wanted to look pretty, I would use geometry to draw my own toolpaths. Then I would just select that geometry to create cool looking paths. MasterCam was getting better at doing it's own thing when I stopped using it.

This was actually my very first time playing with the high speed paths. 7075 aluminum, finishing corners with a 6" flute endmill. Zero chatter. I was impressed.

Same part

 

[332_RC]

Absolutely beautiful. I love 7075. FeatureCam has many great profiles & auto path generation. The default settings normally work for 70% of all basic machining. For me, it all needs tweaks. But I've got 28 years behind the mouse & my hands on the CNCs making my parts I've programmed.
I've machined about everything. CNC mill & lathe, manual & broaching.
303/304, 316, 17-4, 15-5, 440, 420, X35, inconel, 4130/40, 1018, 1045, 12L, 1117, 1144, 1045, ETD150, 8620, 6061, 7075, 3003, POM, Delrin, UHMW, Teflon, nylon, carbon fiber, brass, bronze, oil impregnated both, A2, D2, S7, O1, etc.
I've only ever machined titanium once. I had to C/S some Ti2 deeper. Cut similar to 304 or 17-4. I'm about to get a piece of 3/4" round Ti5 6al4v to make some parts for my RC. It will be CNC parts.
Any suggestions? I will need to blind tap some holes. M17x1. OD turning also. I've read tapping is the hardest thing about it & drilling as the heat goes all into the drill, not the chip.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Pffftttt I don't need no CNC machine.

 

[WickedFog]

Absolutely beautiful. I love 7075. FeatureCam has many great profiles & auto path generation. The default settings normally work for 70% of all basic machining. For me, it all needs tweaks. But I've got 28 years behind the mouse & my hands on the CNCs making my parts I've programmed.
I've machined about everything. CNC mill & lathe, manual & broaching.
303/304, 316, 17-4, 15-5, 440, 420, X35, inconel, 4130/40, 1018, 1045, 12L, 1117, 1144, 1045, ETD150, 8620, 6061, 7075, 3003, POM, Delrin, UHMW, Teflon, nylon, carbon fiber, brass, bronze, oil impregnated both, A2, D2, S7, O1, etc.
I've only ever machined titanium once. I had to C/S some Ti2 deeper. Cut similar to 304 or 17-4. I'm about to get a piece of 3/4" round Ti5 6al4v to make some parts for my RC. It will be CNC parts.
Any suggestions? I will need to blind tap some holes. M17x1. OD turning also. I've read tapping is the hardest thing about it & drilling as the heat goes all into the drill, not the chip.

I hated machining Ti. It hates a light finish cut, and nailing a tight tolerance can be "fun" when carving off a hefty finish cut.

Don't try to tap it with regular taps. It can be done, but it's kinda scary. That size thread, I would threadmill it with one of these. Lots of brands out there. They're nice because you can creep up on nominal with your cutter comp.

And yeah, drilling it is kinda tough. Shallow pecks, good feed, low RPM. Through the tool coolant can help if your machine can do that. Carbide drill.

Now it's been over 10 years since I have drilled Ti, so this is just a stab at it. 1200 RPM, and maybe 10 IPM feed. Keep an ear on it while watching spindle load. Maybe .100" pecks. You'll want to come in with an endmill and flat bottom the hole if you can't drill very far past thread depth.

Pffftttt I don't need no CNC machine.

View attachment 192886

That is a work of art right there. What tools did you use?

 

[332_RC]

I hated machining Ti. It hates a light finish cut, and nailing a tight tolerance can be "fun" when carving off a hefty finish cut.

Don't try to tap it with regular taps. It can be done, but it's kinda scary. That size thread, I would threadmill it with one of these. Lots of brands out there. They're nice because you can creep up on nominal with your cutter comp.
View attachment 192881

And yeah, drilling it is kinda tough. Shallow pecks, good feed, low RPM. Through the tool coolant can help if your machine can do that. Carbide drill.

Now it's been over 10 years since I have drilled Ti, so this is just a stab at it. 1200 RPM, and maybe 10 IPM feed. Keep an ear on it while watching spindle load. Maybe .100" pecks. You'll want to come in with an endmill and flat bottom the hole if you can't drill very far past thread depth.

Totally understand all that. Speak my language no doubt. And the flat bottoming, have to do that regularly. I do lots of thread milling.
I may pilot the tap drill with a drill the diameter of the web thickness of the 16mm tap drill. I've had great luck in hard materials doing that on larger holes.
Thanks dude!

 

[Tunedfrog]

I hated machining Ti. It hates a light finish cut, and nailing a tight tolerance can be "fun" when carving off a hefty finish cut.

Don't try to tap it with regular taps. It can be done, but it's kinda scary. That size thread, I would threadmill it with one of these. Lots of brands out there. They're nice because you can creep up on nominal with your cutter comp.
View attachment 192881

And yeah, drilling it is kinda tough. Shallow pecks, good feed, low RPM. Through the tool coolant can help if your machine can do that. Carbide drill.

Now it's been over 10 years since I have drilled Ti, so this is just a stab at it. 1200 RPM, and maybe 10 IPM feed. Keep an ear on it while watching spindle load. Maybe .100" pecks. You'll want to come in with an endmill and flat bottom the hole if you can't drill very far past thread depth.


That is a work of art right there. What tools did you use?

Nothing but Dremel.

 

[WickedFog]

Nothing but Dremel.

Wow dude.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Thanks man, I do use a band saw and things like that just to get a rough shape at first but it's all finished up with my Dremel's.
When my wood shop is set up, I prefer mini tools. I have three dremel's' two harbor freight rotary tools and
A Black and Decker rotary tool that shorts out. I need to find the short.
I've been getting myself interested in my popsicle sticks again so I may dig everything back out and start in again.
Apologies for hijacking the thread.

 

[Chubaka]

Totally understand all that. Speak my language no doubt. And the flat bottoming, have to do that regularly. I do lots of thread milling.
I may pilot the tap drill with a drill the diameter of the web thickness of the 16mm tap drill. I've had great luck in hard materials doing that on larger holes.
Thanks dude!

I need Rosetta stone.

 

[WickedFog]

Thanks man, I do use a band saw and things like that just to get a rough shape at first but it's all finished up with my Dremel's.
When my wood shop is set up, I prefer mini tools. I have three dremel's' two harbor freight rotary tools and
A Black and Decker rotary tool that shorts out. I need to find the short.
I've been getting myself interested in my popsicle sticks again so I may dig everything back out and start in again.
Apologies for hijacking the thread.

Yeah, we should start a thread huh

That's cool man. I hope you get back into it. I wanna see a popsicle stick rock crawler!

 

[332_RC]

Yeah, we should start a thread huh

That's cool man. I hope you get back into it. I wanna see a popsicle stick rock crawler!

Honestly I've seen alot of RC dudes are also machinist. And dudes who make stuff. The creative mind. I'm horrible at woodworking. Props to that hobby!!
A thread about machining or making stuff out of the box for real! I'm always making stuff. I've got a plexiglass project coming up. It'll be a simple machine I'm designing with plastic gears & a electric motor.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I'll do a build thread with my popsicle sticks and a crawler it is.

 

[JapanRCAdventures]

Side note. CRCU is based out of the UK - fit is perfect, bash bars have been thoroughly tested by K. Talbot and NO one else makes a T7075 Chassis brace or motor mount for this platform. I really dont care about the “finish” itself as this is not for looks but rather function and what matters the most is its strength (T7075).

View attachment 192817

The Machining is fine.

 

[WickedFog]

The Machining is fine.

View attachment 192932

Anyone can cut a contour around a piece of aluminum and make it look fine. Well, that is, anyone except CRCU obviously... chatter chatter chatter

Just terrible man. How they can get chatter cutting a straight edge is beyond me. No pride at all taken in their work. Hard pass for me.

I may pilot the tap drill with a drill the diameter of the web thickness of the 16mm tap drill. I've had great luck in hard materials doing that on larger holes.

Missed this part somehow. I don't think I'd try this with Titanium. I had to open up some 1/2" holes in Ti before on a huge split casing with about 50 flange holes machined undersize prior to EDM splitting of the casing. All we had big enough was a horizontal manual mill. I tried a few methods, from drills (unbelievable chatter), to endmills that I ground to the right diameter. It was one of the toughest jobs I ever did. I ended up reaming it with a series of reamers, stepping it out about .020" at a time, driving them through with so much pressure I thought I was gonna rip the handle off the machine. It sucked ass because Ti will work harden faster than just about anything, and that was what happened. But it was an $800,000 part. It had to be saved.